Vanuatu is a lovely little South Pacific Island; one of thousands. While there are some great dives here in general, the best by far is the wreck of the SS President Coolidge. Launched in 1931 and lost in 1942, the ship has an amazing history and is simply spectacular. Experience the wreck for yourself; you’ll find that it’s easy to understand why The Times of London named the SS President Coolidge one of the world’s top ten wreck dives.
The History of the SS President Coolidge
Built in Newport News, Virginia, as a luxury ocean liner for Dollar Steamship Lines, the President Coolidge and her sister ship, the SS President Hoover, were the largest merchant ships ever built in the US. When the company collapsed in 1938, all its holdings were transferred to American President Lines, a shipping company which is still in operation today.
Equipped with luxurious appointments, spacious staterooms, two saltwater swimming pools, private telephones, a gymnasium, a soda fountain, lounges, plus a beauty parlor and barber shop, the ocean liner normally traveled to Japan from San Francisco, setting several speed records. In 1941, she helped to evacuate Americans from Hong Kong after relations between the British and Japanese became strained, and in 1941, the ship was converted to a troop transport ship, sailing to a variety of South Pacific destinations.
Capable of carrying over 5,000 troops and fitted with guns, the President Coolidge was never supposed to see any action, but on October 26th of 1942, as she was attempting to reach a military base on Espiritu Santo, she was struck by two mines, one which hit the engine room, and a second which hit the stern. The captain, Henry Nelson, who knew the ship was going to sink, ran her aground, ordering all troops to evacuate. Calmly, the troops left the ship behind, along with their possessions; no one really thought the ship would sink, and they thought that they could conduct salvage operations once the situation had stabilized.
It took 90 minutes for 5,340 men to leave the ship; and many even walked to shore. As the Coolidge was resting atop the reef and not firmly beached, she began to list hard to port, finally sliding down the slope and into the channel. Today, she still rests on her port side, with her bow at a depth of 20 meters, and her stern at 70 meters. Incredibly, only two men lost their lives that day. The first was a Fireman, Robert Reid, who was working in the engine room when the first mine struck. The second was a US Army Field Artillery Captain, Elwood J. Euart, who had already evacuated when he learned that some men were still in the infirmary, and were incapable of leaving. He rescued the men from the infirmary, but was not able to save himself and went down with the ship. Today, an onshore memorial dedicated to the Captain stands sentinel near the access points to the wreck, and he was posthumously awarded a Distinguished Service Cross for bravery.
After the war, some items were salvaged, including the propeller blades, but in 1983, the Vanuatu government declared that no more artifacts should be brought to shore. Since then, USS President Coolidge has been a dive site, with publications regularly listing her among the top 5 to 10 wreck dives worldwide.
Diving the SS President Coolidge
Incredibly easy to access from shore, just about 40 meters from the waterline, and easy to find thanks to a permanent line that runs directly to the tip of the bow, the wreck of the Coolidge is mostly intact. Even though earthquakes have caused some sections of the ship to collapse, she is easy for properly equipped and trained divers to penetrate. Newer divers can visit the upper portion of the ship with care; those with more experience, who can explore the wreck fully, are rewarded with a vast time capsule that holds cannons and guns, trucks and Jeeps with tires still inflated, helmets and personal effects, and even some of the ship’s original splendor can be seen. A mosaic tile fountain, crystal chandeliers, and a porcelain relief depicting a woman riding a unicorn, titled The Lady are highlights of the dive.
In addition, the marine life is excellent. Reef fish populate the coral covered reef in abundance, and larger creatures, including moray eels, barracuda, groupers, and sea turtles are encountered on a regular basis.
For those who wish to dive deeper sections of the wreck and maximize bottom time, there are several buoys that mark various sections of the ship. One is located at 50 meters, and another at 150 meters; simply surface swim to the desired buoy, take a breather, and dive to depth. Just over 198 meters long, the ship is enormous; you can make countless dives and never see the same thing twice.
The inner reaches of the SS Coolidge have yet to be fully explored. A fairly recent discovery is the surgery, which is found beneath the 150 meter surface marker buoy. After penetrating the hull at a depth of 45 meters, you’ll be taken through some corridors that lead to the compartment, which is heavily silted. Here, vials of valium, first aid boxes and other medical equipment, and even a jar with a preserved appendix inside can be found on the deck.
In the engine room, which is deeper still, the gauges still point toward their final settings. The motors are enormous, with towering electrical coils and huge condensers. A short distance away, in the galley, the counters and stoves are still intact, with cooking equipment at the ready and stacks of plates awaiting ghostly diners.
Finally, along the stern, which is also accessed from the 150 meter marker buoy, you’ll find the massive propeller shafts, denuded by long ago salvagers. The starboard shaft is at 55 meters, and the port is at a depth of 65 meters. Take a look at the rudder, and swim through its hinge if you like; after this, you can slowly ascend, swimming up the length of the ship. The swimming pools are visible, as are the tourist lounge and the beauty shop.
Two dive operators serve the site, both offering Nitrox and one offering Trimix, which is recommended on this dive. In addition, wreck training is available, as are underwater photography classes. On night dives, flashlight fish illuminate the bow, bridge, and cargo holds. Well worth the journey, diving the SS President Coolidge is an absolutely unforgettable experience, no matter which sections you are able to explore.