A fantastic place to dive year round, British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast gets less rain than Vancouver or Seattle, which translates to clearer water and better visibility. With 80 spectacular kilometers of coastline, ruggedly beautiful islands, and sheltered bays, the area is a haven for wildlife and outdoor sports enthusiasts of all kinds. There are several great shore and boat dives in the area; here are just five of the very best.
Skookumchuck Rapids
Quite possibly one of the most exciting places you will ever dive, Skookumchuck Rapids is the fastest set of salt water rapids on the North American continent. With exceptional visibility all year, plus the opportunity for a fantastic drift in a current that can reach a speed of up to sixteen knots, this site is one even the most jaded expert diver will enjoy. The swift currents that wash through the narrows here carry plentiful nutrients and oxygen to the many colorful creatures that inhabit the soaring walls and even the floor of the site.
Here, in the shallow passage that separates mainland British Columbia from the Sechelt Peninsula, multi-colored anemones and hydroids, patches of giant barnacles, beautiful sponges, nudibranchs, and clumps of sea stars can be seen, along with numerous rockfish and Puget Sound King Crabs, cabezon, kelp greenlings, giant lingcod, red Irish lords, and more. Only diveable at slack tide, this site is suitable only for experienced divers in good physical condition.
HMCS Chaudiere Wreck
Bearing the distinction of being the first Destroyer Escort to be deployed as an artificial reef by British Columbia’s Artificial Reef Society, the HMCS Chaudiere was sunk on December 5th of 1992. During WWII, this magnificent 188 meter ship served as a submarine tracker; today, she lies on her port side in 40 meters of water with her starboard gunwale accessible at a depth of 20 meters. Descent lines lead to the ship, which is a top destination for recreational and technical divers alike.
The ship was carefully cleaned and prepared for divers prior to being deployed; there are directional arrows painted in various locations, although some have faded over time, and there are numerous entry and exit holes that make penetration possible for properly trained and equipped divers. Also known as the “Chaud”, this ship features excellent visibility and is home to a wealth of marine life. Tunicates and bright white plumose anemones carpet the ship’s outer reaches, while rockfish and octopus have made their homes inside. Schooling perch and other fish can be seen swimming by, creating a fantastic vista that makes a dive on this wreck unforgettable.
Saltery Bay and Mermaid Cove
A very popular area for family outings, camping, kayaking, hiking, and beachcombing, Saltery Bay and Mermaid Cove offers great diving and snorkeling, plus there are areas designated for swimming. With several different shore dive entry points to choose from, plus excellent amenities including a wheelchair ramp that leads all the way to the waterline, the area is perhaps best known for its enormous and lovely bronze mermaid sculpture which is the twin to an identical mermaid sculpture at Grand Cayman’s Sunset House. Called the Emerald Princess, this gorgeous 3 meter high sculpture by Simon Morris sits in 20 meters of water, making access easy for most divers. Sculpted in 1986, this mermaid has been visited by divers from around the world; she is adorned with a few sea pens that sit in the sand around her heavy base, and schooling perch, greenlings, and other fish keep eternal watch.
In addition to the mermaid statue, there are many wonderful rock formations to explore, where colorful sponges and anemones, iridescent nudibranchs, and an abundance of sea stars in various shapes, colors, and sizes can be found; crustaceans and fish can be seen here as well. Beyond the mermaid, the bottom drops away, creating a wall where all sorts of sea worms and other intriguing creatures can be found; watch for squat lobsters, octopus, and king crabs as you explore.
Maximum depth at this fantastic multi-level dive site is just over 60 meters, yet there is plenty to see in much shallower water as well. With consistently good visibility, this area is ideal for all divers. During the summer months, watch out for lion’s mane jellyfish; while beautiful, they pack a powerful sting.
Fearney Bluffs
Located about 20 minutes from Pender Harbor, the soaring Fearney Bluffs rise straight up from the water, all the way from the seabed around 80 meters below. With normally exceptional visibility that can sometimes come close to 30 meters, the site is not only great for its magnificent geology, but for its spectacular marine life as well. Like a luxurious blanket, huge white plumose anemones, beautiful clusters of sponge, vibrant washes of encrusting algae, and all kinds of colorful invertebrates cover the wall. The cloud sponges are ancient and enormous; there are octopus peering suspiciously from their dens, and the brilliant sea pens and feather stars add a magic touch. Rock scallops and swimming scallops can be seen, along with different nudibranch species, loads of rockfish, cod, perch, and other fish. Conditions tend to be calm, making this an exceptional site for underwater photography.
Malahat Wreck
With a fascinating history, the Malahat is a five masted schooner that was built during the WWI era. Although the wreck we’re about to look at is called the Malahat, there were eleven similar ships built by the same yard at the time she was laid down, and the popular show Sea Hunters has visited the wreck; there is still some question as to which of the twelve ships this is. Originally built to transport lumber from British Columbia, she was used as a bootlegging vessel during prohibition, earning the title of “Queen of the Rum Runners.” Her crew would load her up with Canadian liquor and head for waters off California, where clients would visit the floating liquor store. US Coast Guard cutters tried to capture the ship multiple times, however she would consistently outrun them. Once prohibition in the United States came to an end, the ship went back to her original tasks, eventually falling into disrepair and being scuttled in 1946.
Today, the ship has broken up but is still a great dive. Easily accessed from shore near downtown Powell River, where a local dive operator offers guided trips, directions to the site, and airfills, the 245 foot long ship has mostly collapsed and is relatively shallow. She sits with her bow at 10 meters and her stern at 25 meters, and is home to a splendid array of marine life. Lots of rockfish and some huge lingcod, sea cucumbers, nudibranchs, and plenty of other invertebrates can be found among the wreckage, along with some wolf eels and octopus. Keep an eye out for sea lions as you explore; they love to visit divers and often put on quite a show. A favorite site for photographers, and suitable for all divers, this wreck is situated just to the left of the Powell River breakwater. Just before the bend in the breakwater, a pipe juts out; follow it to its end, then turn right and swim for a short distance; the wreck is easy to find.
Just about 40 minutes by ferry from West Vancouver, the Sunshine Coast is a fantastic place to enjoy a tranquil getaway. Accommodations are available, as is camping, so whether you prefer a luxury vacation or a more causal holiday, you can enjoy some of BC’s best diving and more.