A magnificent atoll coral reef situated in the Philippines Sulu Sea, Tubbataha Reef has been nominated as one of the new Seven Wonders of Nature and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its name, which is a combination of the Samal words “Tubba” and “Taha”, literally means “long reef exposed at low tide.” Home to more than 1,000 species and made up of two atolls separated by a channel, it is bordered by steep walls that drop away into the abyss, which is more than 1,200 meters deep in some areas. Here are eight must-see Tubbataha Reef dive sites – just a portion of what awaits in the area’s 1,000 square kilometer range.
Bird Island
Located on the North Atoll’s northern face, Bird Island features a fantastic wall that begins in 5 to 8 meters of water, depending on the tide. Look for leopard sharks and nurse sharks resting in small grottoes in the rocky face, which is covered in splendid soft coral and gorgonian growth. Huge barrel sponges grow here, providing shelter to smaller creatures. Look for manta rays and eagle rays, flounder and turtles, and small reef sharks as you explore. Some of the manta rays are enormous, and schooling fish can be found in abundance. Maximum depth is beyond 60 meters, and the site is subject to intense currents.
Lighthouse South Face
Named for the scenic lighthouse at its southern tip, Lighthouse South Face features a long stretch of shallow reef top where you can relax and enjoy all the colorful Moorish idols, tangs, angelfish, butterfly fish, and other reef dwellers that live among the coral and sponges. Clownfish make their homes in anemones here, while blue-spotted rays and turtles can often be seen in the sand and sea grass beds, respectively. While the average dive profile calls for a depth of about 20 meters, the walls meet the ocean floor at more than 70 meters. Suitable for all divers when calm, the site is subject to strong, unpredictable currents at times.
Jessie Beazley Reef
Just half a kilometer in diameter, and situated approximately twenty kilometers northwest of North Tubbataha, Jessie Beazley Reef is only diveable during calm weather. Beginning in seven meters of water and sloping to 12 meters before joining with a wall that drops away to more than 50 meters, the reef is an excellent place to encounter large pelagic species. Watch for white tip and black tip reef sharks, tuna, barracuda, and huge groupers, and near the top of the reef, smaller, more colorful fish can be found in abundance. The reef is covered in Acropora coral and Porite corals, creating a beautiful backdrop for photography. Suitable for intermediate divers and above, the reef is at its best between March and June. Watch for manta and eagle rays along the south tip, and look for the hammerhead, mako, and thresher sharks that sometimes visit this reef.
Black Rock North Face
Usually calm, but subject to currents at times, Black Rock North Face features a gentle slope from 10 to 20 meters that eventually gives way to a wall festooned with coral and sponge growth. Dropping away to more than 70 meters below the surface, this wall attracts massive pelagic fish and other creatures; divers commonly encounter hawksbill and green sea turtles here. In addition, manta rays, eagle rays, and white tip reef sharks are seen on occasion.
Basterra Reef
Rising up to the surface from the abyss 1,800 meters below, Basterra Reef is a huge pinnacle formation topped with a sand bar. Often considered to be the best Sulu Sea dive site of all, the reef is fantastic in its own right, but also features two wrecks: the Tristar B at the north face, and the Oceanic to the east.
The Tristar B lies on a gentle slope that leads to about 10 meters deep, after which the walls drop away into the deep. Home to trevally and snapper, parrotfish and wrasse, along with the occasional white tip reef shark, the wreck was dynamite-fished before the area became protected; still, it and the surrounding coral are recovering well.
The Oceanic wreck sits on a colorful coral slope at about 8 meters and offers a good vantage point for viewing manta rays and reef sharks, blue spotted rays and sharks. To the south, a sandy slope to 18 meters meets up with a wall covered in hydroids and gorgonians, along with some exceptional giant clam specimens. Watch for hammerheads as you look out into the endless blue; they may be below you as they prefer water more than 30 meters deep. Visibility is excellent here – usually better than 40 meters.
East Face on North Atoll
A fantastic multi-level site which is extensive enough to be explored for a few dives without seeing the same scenery twice, the North Atoll’s East Face begins along a sandy bottom with stands of coral, in depths between 15 and 25 meters. From there, the wall drops away into the deep sapphire depths to meet the seabed about 70 meters below. In the shallower areas, you’ll find damsels and wrasse, Moorish idols and angelfish, and just about every other kind of reef fish imaginable. Beyond 30 meters, schooling trevally, tuna, barracuda, and black and white tip reef sharks are encountered with regularity. In addition, manta rays and turtles can be seen, usually in shallower areas.
East Face South Atoll
Sloping away to 24 meters, this part of the reef is home to a colorful and seemingly endless array of reef fish and other tiny creatures. Everything from large groupers and big parrotfish to tiny butterfly fish and damsels can be found along the South Atoll’s East Face, which ends at a wall that stretches away to the north for a length of twelve kilometers.
Here, positioned precariously on the edge of the drop off, you’ll find the partially submerged wreck of the Delsan, which attracts even more fish. Watch for manta rays, sharks, and barracuda, along with the occasional turtle as you make your way around the coral-encrusted ship.
Amos Rock
Perched on the south side of Tubbataha’s north islet, Amos Rock is accessible at about 5 meters. Beginning on a gentle slope and ending at a vertical wall, the site is most active when the current is running. Watch for mackerel and snappers, huge groupers, and lots of fusiliers, surgeonfish, angelfish, Moorish idols, and others. The coral is fantastic here, beginning in the shallows and ending with gorgonians and whip corals that beckon as sea water flows past the rock. The bottom of the wall meets up with the seabed at about 70 meters; depth combined with current makes the site unsuitable for inexperienced divers. Watch for white tip and gray reef sharks, eagle rays, and manta rays, and keep an eye out for turtles.
With no permanent inhabitants other than the birds, and no accommodations anywhere nearby, Tubbataha can only be dived via liveaboard. If you think you would like to visit, be sure to book in advance, and don’t be surprised if you end up waiting for more than a year – during the busiest seasons including Easter and Golden Week, trips are often booked years in advance. Thanks to conservation efforts though, these sites are sure to stand the test of time.