Graciosa is a lovely island and the northernmost of the Central Azores. In Portuguese, the island’s name literally means “graceful,” and from the moment you lay eyes on its luxurious landscape of green hills, which rise up out of the deep blue ocean like gems, you’ll more than likely feel inclined to agree. Here, we’ll quickly explore five of the so-called White Island’s most popular dive sites, including the Terceirense wreck.
Baixo do Ferreiro
Located along Graciosa’s northern coast, and featuring depths between 1 and 40 meters, Baxo do Ferriero is one of those rare dive sites that has something for everyone. With currents that are sometimes light and more often non-existent, this site is home to a who’s who list of Atlantic marine life, including bonitos and groupers, almaco jacks and white trevally, fierce-looking barracudas, and manta rays that visit during the summer. Big groupers, shy moray eels, and more gregarious conger eels hide among the rocks, and colorful anthias, damsels, and wrasse fill the water, creating a scene that is purely magical.
Baixa do Pesquiro Longo
Located about a mile off the island’s northeast coast, Baixa do Pesquiro Longo is a submerged volcanic cone that rises up from a depth of about 96 meters to within just six meters of the surface. This site might be fairly shallow in places, but it is washed by strong, persistent currents, so it is reserved for expert divers only. Though challenging, it is a very rewarding site, not just for its amazing topography, but for the seemingly endless parade of marine life, its rare black coral, and its massive schools of pelagics. During the summer months, keep an eye out for sunfish and manta rays.
Ilheu do Carapacho
Another magnificent site that’s suitable for all divers, Ilheu do Carapacho is wonderfully colorful, thanks to masses of brilliant jewel anemones that cover the rocks from a depth of just about a meter to a depth of about 7 meters. The landscape becomes rockier as one heads down toward maximum depth of 30 meters, and the amount of marine life encountered is nearly mind-boggling. Watch for bream and rainbow wrasse, ornate wrasse, anthia, groupers, nudibranchs, and moray eels close to the rocks, and keep an eye on the blue, because huge jacks, big bonitos, and huge schools of mackerel being followed by packs of hunting barracuda can be seen passing by.
Restinga do Freire
A lovely sheltered dive site with depths between 1 and 15 meters, Restinga do Freire is a great place to observe moray eels and octopus, slipper lobsters, and other creatures including Guinean puffer fish. Schooling barracudas pass by in the distance, and colorful wrasse, parrotfish, and others make this a site you’ll want to visit more than once. Bring your camera, because the macro life is astounding!
Terceirense Wreck
Located just off Praia Harbor, the Terceirense wreck is a lovely site with maximum depth at just 21 meters. Lost in 1968, this 40-meter cargo ship was lost after striking a rock during foul weather. No lives were lost in the accident. Today, the site serves as a fascinating dive site that is home to fork beards, moray eels, conger eels, and lots of groupers. Schooling fish large and small can be observed swimming about the wreck, and the ship itself is still fairly intact, with a huge propeller that makes a great focal point for underwater photos. Use caution since the site is located near the harbor.
Topside, Graciosa offers no shortage of cultural attractions, including a number of intriguing historic sites that date back to the 1400s. Beautiful lighthouses and fascinating old windmills dot the coastline, and splendid food and local wine are abundant. Accommodations are available on the island. Visit during the summer months if you can, and be sure to make plans with a dive operator in advance as space can be limited. If you’re ready for a real adventure, some amazing marine life, and exceptional underwater vistas, Graciosa cannot be matched.