It is no surprise that Thailand is rapidly becoming one of the world’s most popular underwater playgrounds. The water is clear and warm, the fish and coral are healthy, the people are wonderful, and the dive sites themselves are difficult to beat! One of the best sites Thailand has to offer is Richelieu Rock, which was once hailed as a magnet for whale sharks. While they still frequent the area, their numbers are slightly lower than they once were.
Diving Richelieu Rock
The massive underwater monolith that is Richelieu Rock is at its best during Whale Shark season, which is between February and May. Lying a short 18 kilometers east of the Surin Islands, the rock itself rises from the seabed, which is at 32 meters, to break the surface during the very lowest tides. If you can see it at all, it looks like a simple rock of sorts; it is completely unremarkable.
Once you drop into the water, you’ll understand why this site is world renowned. Carpeted in pink and purple coral and brilliant sea stars and gobs of crustaceans, this incredible rocky pillar has cracks and crevices all throughout its structure, where all manner of small creatures hide from prying eyes. More, smaller boulders are scattered along the bottom here, each with its own set of spectacular inhabitants. Sea fans and sponges from large barrels to small fingers, soft coral, and anemones filled with anemonefish have each claimed their own tiny patches of underwater real estate. Ghost pipefish, seahorses, and other intricately patterned creatures cling to sea fans and coral, making us thankful for our digital cameras!
Larger fish and animals are here too, including the aforementioned Whale Sharks, and curious Manta Rays. Eagle rays and stingrays are commonly encountered, as are some other, rarer forms of marine life. Watch for guitar sharks, sawfish, and shovelnose ray; these animals are rarely seen in other places, yet they tend to congregate around Richelieu Rock.
Schools of trevally and barracuda, and clouds of thousands of swarming fusiliers join lionfish and massive groupers, giant needlefish, red bar anthias, copper sweepers, and badger clingfish in a colorful display that is almost beyond imaginable. Besides these fish, the area is home to no less than twelve species of moray eel, including the rarely encountered golden moray. If it swims in Thailand’s waters, you will more than likely find it here.
A mating ground for cuttlefish and a favorite breeding ground for leopard sharks, plus a haven for better-camouflaged creatures, such as frogfish, there is too much to see at Richelieu Rock to possibly take in during the course of a single dive. With the rock’s east and west sides acting as different hemispheres, and entirely different life forms on every surface, it is not surprising that most of the liveaboards that visit schedule several dives here.
The currents that attract all this life can be strong, and the best way to view it all is by drifting through at about thirty meters. There is nowhere for a dive boat to anchor, so you’ll be doing a dive from a live boat. As such, this is not a site for beginners, but when conditions are right, it is fine for intermediate divers.
Most of the trips here are done from liveaboards, though there are a few shops that do offer day trips. No matter which you choose you’re sure to enjoy a colorful and memorable dive.