Belize’s oldest marine reserve, and one of the most spectacular reserves of its kind in the nation, Hol Chan Marine Reserve was formed around a quebrada, or cut, which runs through the reef located off the southern tip of Ambergris Caye. Covering approximately three square miles, this amazing geologic feature has been divided into four specific zones, each of which is representative of a specific marine habitat. Let’s take a closer look at this interlinked system, which includes coral reef, mangroves, seagrass beds, and the quebrada, which is known as Shark – Ray Channel, itself.
The Reef: Zone A
Looking at shots taken from the air, one can immediately see just how vast this incredible reef system is. Beneath the surface, the reef habitat which is dominated by huge formations of elkhorn coral, brain coral, starlet coral, and gorgonians, along with lettuce and finger coral formations is simply spectacular. Although the reef was damaged prior to achieving protected status, new growth including encrusting corals and sponges has taken over the dead sections and provides cover for the many creatures which live in and around the reef.
Primarily shallow, with depths ranging from 1.75 meters in the sand-bordered inner reef, to 13 meters or so along the edge of the outer reef, Zone A is home to a thriving lobster population. You can find nurse sharks, turtles, schooling blue tang, and hogfish here, along with parrotfish and the occasional black tip reef shark. At low tide, many of these animals are trapped inside the reef, and can only leave their dens once the tide comes in and covers the reef sufficiently to allow them to move to another area. Watch for huge Nassau groupers, and big silver tarpon, and don’t be surprised if curious spotted dolphins join you as you explore.
The Grass Beds: Zone B
Patches of brilliant green sea grass spring up from the white, sandy bottom inside the lagoons at Hol Chan. While the entire zone is certainly one of nature’s most spectacular masterpieces, there are two areas which are of special interest.
The first is the Boca Ciega blue hole, which is a cavern with its opening at about 4 meters. Look for glassy sweepers and other dark-loving fish inside, and keep an eye out for the nurse sharks which sometimes come in from the reef area.
The second is called Neptune’s Garden, and with average depth at just 4 feet, is best for snorkeling rather than diving. Covered in brilliant algae and sponges, it shelters a wide variety of small creatures, and is a good place to encounter tiny juvenile sea turtles and lobsters.
Manatees and mature loggerhead turtles can be seen grazing on the sea grass. Tempting as it may be to head in for a close encounter, remember that this is strictly forbidden, and not advisable at any time. Watch for queen conch and bottlenose dolphins as you make a leisurely exploration of this fantastic habitat.
The Mangroves: Zone C
Consisting of seven mangrove cayes and several channels, including the Boca Chica channel, this habitat features a fringing border of red mangrove that extends along the intertidal zone. Sadly, this area is disputed and much of the mature growth near the areas which are currently being developed has been cleared. Shallow, with maximum depth at about 9 meters inside the Boca Chica channel itself, the mangrove habitat shelters an incredible array of juvenile fish, including pelagic and reef species. The root systems, which extend horizontally for about 11-22 meters, are covered in sponges and tunicates, and patches of sea grass spring up like small meadows in areas where the mangrove roots are sparse. There is a small dock here, and birds nest in the mangroves themselves, which are usually no taller than about 5 meters. Look for miniature versions of all the marine life you know and love – you’ll be surprised at the sheer number of species represented in this endangered and important habitat. This site is so shallow that you can simply snorkel if you like, with the exception of Boca Chica channel – you’ll need to dive to get a good look at the spectacular coral that lines its walls.
Shark-Ray Alley: Zone D
An incredible site that has to be seen to be believed, Shark – Ray Alley is located inside the reef. The sharks and stingrays you’ll see here have been coming in droves for years, primarily because this is where local fishermen used to clean their catch. With maximum depth at only 10 meters and with crystal clear water that allows for outstanding photographs, the site is suitable for all divers, just as the remainder of the reserve is. Besides the nurse sharks and the rays that arrive at about the same time your boat does, Zone D is inhabited by a colorful supporting cast that includes parrotfish and barracuda, spider crabs and angelfish, plus the ever-present snappers, moray eels and lobsters.
Both the sharks and rays will often approach divers in search of a handout, but it is best not to touch them. While both nurse sharks and stingrays are known to be docile, they are certainly capable of inflicting injuries. A long trip to the emergency room is not a good way to spend your precious dive time! Ideal for snorkeling as well as diving, Shark – Ray Alley is often subject to some current, and the corals that line the channel offer little in the way of protection. Be sure to pay close attention during your dive briefing regarding live boat pick up and other particulars.
Excursions to Hol Chan Marine Reserve begin in San Pedro. Before you head out, be sure to take a trip to the visitor’s center, which is located on Caribena Street. There are interesting displays here, along with pamphlets and other materials that can help you make the most of your visit. While you can hire a guide and a boat in San Pedro the same day you want to see Hol Chan, it is advisable to look into prearranged tours, since they tend to offer the most comprehensive range of services. Definitely a must do when diving in Belize, this is one place you’ll never forget.