Extraordinarily beautiful, both for its topside scenery and for its splendid underwater vistas, the area around the small city of Campbell River is rapidly gaining popularity with divers hoping to elude crowded dive sites and take in the sight of some of the most incredible marine life the Pacific Northwest region has to offer. While there are a few sites in the area that are only slightly challenging, most of these sites are washed by strong currents which are essential to the health of their underwater organisms. Here are just six of the best to add to your wish list.
Row and Be Damned
Back in the days before motorized boats, sailors would have had to row swiftly and steadily to navigate this area, which is at the north end of the strait of Georgia, just off a steep, rocky cliff on Quadra Island, which drops away into the passage’s turbulent waters. Perhaps the most colorful reef British Columbia has to offer, the site features an incredible carpet of sponges and scallops, intricately designed tubeworms, sea pens, and anemones, including gorgeous pink Strawberry anemones. In cracks and crevices, red Irish lords, tiger rockfish, and wolf eels hide from the current; while huge lingcod and octopus encounters create even more excitement. Formed of huge boulders and rock formations that pass quickly as you drift, the site is suitable for experts only. A pickup boat is a must, as is a knowledgeable local guide. Maximum depth is just over 20 meters, and diving is only possible at slack tide.
Seymour Narrows
Located halfway up the famous Discovery Passage, Seymour Narrows is a short 10 nautical miles north of Campbell River. At its south entrance sits Ripple Rock, a current-swept pinnacle covered with invertebrates and thousands of colorful anemones. Once known as one of the most notorious hazards to navigation in the area, the rock was blown to smithereens in 1958 after causing over 100 deaths in at least 120 known maritime accidents. Before the rock’s demise, it reached to within 3 meters of the surface at low tide; today, the top is at a depth of 14 meters. Its sides drop sharply to meet the seabed at a depth of 90 meters.
In addition to Ripple Rock, Seymour Narrows boasts several other spots where one can enjoy a fast paced drift in either direction, depending on the tidal race. It is possible to dive just about anywhere in the narrows and enjoy a spectacular view. Be ready for speed; the current can reach 16 knots on a flood tide and 14 knots on an ebb; it is one of the three fastest tidal streams in the world. Your efforts will be rewarded, as the walls of the narrows are covered in vibrantly colorful life; anemones and sponges create a fantastic backdrop for schooling fish and the playful sea lions that hunt them. Maximum depth along the walls is about 110 meters, but the most spectacular growth is in much shallower water, between 12 and 18 meters.
The importance of using caution on this dive cannot be stressed enough. Seymour Narrows is a major shipping channel, and currents are erratic as well as strong.
Steep Island
Located just off Quadra Island, to the north of Gowlland Island, Steep Island is situated to the south of the famous Copper Cliffs. Flat, rocky, and fairly insignificant looking topside, the site’s underwater features are simply stunning. With enormous clusters of purple feather duster worms, vibrant sea stars in shades of purple, red, and yellow, and millions of strawberry anemones, along with big white plumose anemones and lots of sea pens, it is a haven for photographers. Nudibranchs and octopus, lots of rockfish, sculpins, red Irish lords, and wolf eels thrive among the rocks, and during the summer, masses of kelp add another layer of life and shelter even more fish, including schools of big perch. Use caution here, as the current can be strong, and be sure to carry a sharp knife as the kelp can pose an entanglement hazard.
Middle of the Road
Easy to access, thanks to roadside parking right near the water, Middle of the Road is located on the leeward side of Quadra Island and often features a bit less current than other nearby sites. In the shallows, lovely stands of olive green bull kelp contrast beautifully with purple sea urchins and cup corals, and scattered rocks punctuate the sandy slopes. Big sunflower stars thrive here, along with some large sea pens. Toward the left of the site, a rock wall drops away to about 17 meters, its vertical face covered in orange and yellow sponges and a thick coating of fantastic pink Strawberry anemones. You’ll find quite a few fish and crustaceans here as well, but the macro life is the main attraction. At times, it is possible to do a drift from Whiskey Point and end up here, but don’t try it without a live boat. You can only do this dive from shore on a very calm day; when the current is running, use a boat or you’ll risk being swept away.
End of the Road, or Whiskey Point
While it is possible to drive to Whiskey Point and access it from the end of Noble Road, where a short trail leads down to the water, it is best to do this as a boat dive, as it is normally a drift in a current that averages about six knots. Here, massive boulders covered with a tapestry of pink Strawberry anemones, purple encrusting algae, and yellow sponges shelter a multitude of different types of rockfish, along with a few lingcod and some very large resident wolf eels. During the summer months, lush kelp growth adds to the scenic atmosphere and shelters greenlings, red Irish lords, schooling perch, and others. Be sure to carry a sharp knife and only dive here if you’re prepared to deal with the current. While maximum depth is 27 meters, there is a proliferation of marine life in much shallower water. Keep an eye out for the seals; they sometimes put on quite a show!
Richmond Reef
Best at slack tide and tricky when the current is running, Richmond Reef is an offshore pinnacle in Discovery Pass just off Quadra Island. The pinnacle’s top is at a depth of about 6 meters, and drops away to meet the seabed at a depth of about 22 meters. Covered in masses of strawberry anemones that contrast beautifully with the white plumose anemones, yellow sponges, purple encrusting algae, and multi-colored invertebrates that live here, the site is topped with a lush little kelp forest during the summer months. You’ll find king crabs and kelp greenlings, quillback rockfish and yellowtail rockfish, warbonnets, and many other fish as you explore.
To get the most out of a trip to Campbell River and nearby Quarda Island, work on your physical fitness level and be sure to dive with a charter or dive company with a proven track record for both local knowledge and safety. You’re certain to find yourself wishing you could dive these big, powerful sites again and again.