Some of the most amazing dives in the world are located in the tiny region of Tulamben, which is located on Bali’s northeast coast beneath the shelter of Mount Gunuung Agung. With gorgeous reefs, massive drop-offs, and one of the world’s best WWII shipwrecks, Tulamben has something for everyone.
USS Liberty
Many people are initially intrigued by Tulamben, thanks to the wreck of the USS Liberty. Unlike many of the South Pacific’s shipwrecks, this particular wreck is not an underwater graveyard, and it is not subject to restricted access. In addition, it is an extremely easy wreck dive that can be accessed from shore.
The Liberty was a US cargo ship, which was hit by a Japanese torpedo in the Lombok Strait, on January 11th, 1942. She was taking on water fast, and even though she was being towed to shore as quickly as possible by two Navy destroyers, they could not get her to port. They released the ship and beached her at Tulamben, where local people salvaged what they could. For the next twenty-one years, the ship stayed on the beach, until Mount Agung erupted and sent her tumbling into the water.
To access the dive, enlist a local porter to help you lug your gear across the round black rocks that line the beach, then make your way across more of those rocks until you can swim. You will finally reach sand at about thirty meters, and soon after that, you will see the Liberty, which reaches to five meters below the surface and sits in just thirty meters maximum. Try to get to this site early in the day, because it can be overrun with snorkelers later on.
Here, you will see bumphead parrotfish as well as other reef fish, and enjoy the massive 120 meter ship, which is completely covered in colorful sponges. Nudibranchs now scuttle about on the same decks where sailors stood, and at night, you can see flashlight fish, even more nudis, big spider crabs, and cowries. If you are a skilled wreck diver, the ship is penetrable toward the bow, and is still in good shape inside.
Tulamben Dropoff
Another popular Tulamben dive site is the Tulamben Dropoff, which is located just about five hundred meters to the east of the wreck. Use the temple onshore for a landmark, and enjoy the three massive coral-encrusted lava spurs that descend to as much as sixty meters. There is a current here which allows for a drift, and the entire area is loaded with macro life as well as being covered in beautiful Muricella gorgonians. You can see some at about thirty meters which are close to two meters across!
Paradise Reef and the River
Both of these dive sites can be combined into one short dive, or enjoyed at a more leisurely pace if time permits. They are both located between USS Liberty and the Tulamben drop off, and are home to an incredible variety of aquatic life. Paradise Reef is mostly shallow at three to fifteen meters; however, there is a cleaning station at twenty-five meters, which is occupied by shrimp and wrasse that eagerly await the arrival of larger fish or turtles in need of a scrub. The River is more of a black sanded bottom muck dive, and is where you can see both ghost pipefish and harlequin pipefish, as well as mimic octopus, blue ribbon eels, and others. Watch for eagle rays, black tip reef sharks, big Spanish mackerel, and even barracuda as they come and go. Night diving is very popular at the River site, so give it a chance if you have time!
Batu Klebit
Batu Klebit, which features deeper offshore reefs full of pelagics, is accessed via a boat trip to the southeast, a short distance off Tulamben beach. Some hardy divers enjoy entering the site via shore – it can be accessed from some large rocks that lead out to the reef area. A word of caution, however – this dive can be challenging, as it is deep. Unless you are in top condition, it’s probably best to take the boat.
Once you arrive at Batu Klebit, you can descend along the plateau to depths between thirty and fifty meters. The slope is covered in big hard coral blocks with sand channels in between them as well as plenty of healthy soft coral on the rocks in the area. It is not unusual to see sharks resting in the sand as you descend, and once you get further into the depths, you will see more sharks, tuna, and barracuda. Watch for manta rays, sunfish, and turtles, too!
Seraya House Reef
Just south of Tulamben is the Seraya House Reef, which is located right off the beach directly in front of the resort. Once you navigate the waves and slip beneath the surface, you will see small coral formations and white hydroids, as well as some small sponges, all beautifully contrasted with the black sand. Once you arrive at the reef, you might wonder why it is not named Nudibranch Heaven, or some similar name! The reef here is crawling with a rainbow of nudis, and is home to both common seahorses and spiny seahorses. As you continue, you will come to a big cleaning station at seventeen meters, which is operated by some bustling white, pink, blue and yellow hingeback shrimp that have set up shop on top of a big coral block. Wait patiently and you might be treated to a flight of rays or a family of turtles in need of service.
At night, you may see octopus and more shrimp and crabs, as well as even more nudibranchs and frogfish. This easy dive is fun for everyone and the site is often used for training. Come out early in the morning to get the most uninterrupted view. Watch for parrotfish, napoleons, and colorful reef fish in all shapes and sizes!
While much of the diving at Tulamben can be conducted from shore, if you and your buddy are not experts, it is always a good idea to hire a local guide to accompany you, especially if you have a limited amount of time and want to see certain features. Besides the dive sites we have mentioned here, there are dozens of other, lesser known sites that offer just as much fun and exploration. One could dive here for weeks and still have a check-off list a mile long!