When most people picture an exotic trip to Kenya, they envision elephants and big mammals crossing the savanna of the country’s famous safari game parks and reserves. Those who’ve been to Kenya, however, have discovered the other wild side of the region–the underside. That is, the warm waters and reef-lined Indian Ocean, where exploration is at its peak. In these inviting tropical waters, scuba divers can encounter sharks, big pelagics, dolphins, and shoals of fishes as they go about their every day marine lives. The colors are fabulous and the predators thrilling, while the macro life is curiously fascinating and the creatures unforgettable.
Kenya’s dive sites are tremendous for a number of reasons. Because of its geographic location, the waters are warm and inviting to reef-dwelling species. The country’s designation of many of its waters as protected marine parks allow the reefs to sustain their pristine condition. Therefore, the protected dive sites in Kenya are among the best in the world.
Specifically, the coast in the Watamu National Marine Park and Reserve area is recognized as having world class dive sites. The Park and Reserve, located 25 km south of Malindi, is possibly the best section for diving off the Kenyan coastline. From great visibility to plankton rich water that gather in this bay, the diversity of sea flora and fauna is incredible, as well as the chances to encounter the sea’s ‘Big Five’ - which includes whale sharks and large manta rays. Most dive operators simply mark this as a ‘must dive’ for scuba diving enthusiasts coming to Kenya for the first time.
Because the reef at Watamu hugs the shore closely, the coral reefs that exist there are easily accessible to beginner divers and first-time snorkelers. The coral gardens are merely 300 meters from the shore and are home over 600 species of fish and weird and wonderful sea creatures alike. Therefore, Dive centers and operators located in this region offer extensive diving and snorkeling opportunities for novice and experienced divers to maximize everyone’s chance of observing this natural wonder. Typically, the dive season runs from August through to mid April and most (although not all) dive operators are closed in May, June and July due to monsoon winds that agitate currents. Snorkeling, however, can be done all year round.
But Watamu offers more than just shallow and low current dives for novices; for the more experienced divers the outer reef has some plunging dropoffs and massive brain corals that attracting a plethora of marine species. There are cave and night dives, as well as deep water wreck dives for advanced divers.
The Watamu protected coral reefs form the physical and biological “heart” of the area. In this central location, marine life abounds including 150 species of hard and soft corals including brain corals, fan corals and sponges which supply the nutrients for over a thousand species of reef fish that call the region home. On top of this extraordinary biodiversity, the region is known for seasonal visits from whale sharks when plankton and krill are present from December through February. Other large pelagic species include manta rays, grouper and barracuda. Divers wishing to watch the migration of humpback whales can spot pods traveling and occasionally breaching through deep offshore Kenyan waters between September and December. Watamu is also a crucial sea turtle feeding and nesting area. Green and Hawksbill turtles are the most common species of turtles that feed and nest in the Watamu Reef. In the open waters, however, divers can spot Loggerheads, Olive Ridley and Leatherbacks.
Within the famous Watamu National Marine Park and Reserve, there are actually 20 named dive sites. The dive sites and dropoffs range from depths of 10-40 meters and visibility is excellent, as it ranges from 15-40 meters. Divers may engage in wreck and night diving, and most dive centers offer both beginner and advanced classes, as well as specialty courses.
Some of the sites in the protected areas include Moray Reef, Drummers Reef, The Canyon, and Deep Place. The dive areas around the Canyon, Canyon North, and Deep Place are located on the northern Watamu reef. Depths in these sites drop from 10 to about 27 m from where they are interrupted by the sandy sea floor. In The Canyon, the reef again rises in depth after crossing a ditch that measures 25 meters. It is in this channel where divers occasionally experience a current. The currents, though, often usher in reef sharks or large stingrays. Coral growth is nice here and leaf fish are also present in this underwater habitat. Additionally, Brain Coral is a site nearby The Canyon and Deep Place. The dive site is a very old coral hill, which now is partly collapsing. The site hosts excellent diversity of coral fishes, and is suitable for beginner divers.
The Shakwe Wreck capsized and sank during a storm in 1990. The 25-meter fishing trawler now lies in relatively shallow waters at a depth of only 12 m, and the starboard side is almost completely in-tact. Apart from the wheelhouse, however, much of the vessel is not accessible to divers. Divers will see that the hull has since overgrown with small coral heads, and this environment now houses many different kinds of small crabs. Nudibranchs are also found at this wreck dive site. In addition to being a wreck dive, shoal diving can be experienced as a shoal of batfish calls the wreck home. Divers also get the treat of observing larger species such as groupers, stingrays, and octopus. Unlike many wreck dives around the world, the Shakwe wreck is a great dive site for beginners.
Manta Place, Black Coral Reef, and Soldierfish Place all have high concentrations of plankton in the bay of Watamu. This makes these dive sites some of the best for encountering whale sharks or manta rays, especially during the months of January and February each year.
Turtle Reef can be a bit deep and is limited to advanced divers. The obvious main attraction here is the abundance of sea turtles that inhabit the waters at this dive site.
Ultimately, the Watamu Marine Reserve in Kenya is one of Africa’s most promising locations. While above sea level the commitment to preservation thrives, the marine reserve is a younger initiative that the world has yet to discover. Regardless of whether or not masses will one day flock to Watumu the way they do to the Masai Mara and other safari parks, for now, the Watamu reef is one of the most sustainable ‘secrets’ in Kenya.