Like a labyrinth, The Yucatan Peninsula’s realm is a huge platform where water runs through underground caves. As portions of this Mexican land have collapsed, sinkholes–called “cenotes”–have been created. Now, thousands of these water-table windows sprawl across the Yucatan Peninsula, with hundreds situated in the short span of area between Cancun and Tulum, Riviera Maya. And, although hundreds of the Cenotes, or sinkholes, have been discovered and charted over the last three decades by expert cave divers, there is still much room for exploration and the uncovering of new frontiers. The thought alone is enough to intrigue a diver, and the actual sites don’t disappoint.
Mexico’s Cenotes are record-breaking; the world’s three longest underwater cave systems are in fact located in the Riviera Maya, Mexico. They are Ox Bel Ha, a 146-kilometer deep cave and cavern system; the Nohoch Nah Chich at 60 kilometers; and Dos Ojos, a twin pair of “eyes” large enough to provide room for exquisite cavern diving.
Among the three, Dos Ojos–which literally translates from Spanish to mean “Two Eyes”– continues to be recognized as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world by online and print publications, as well as from the mouths of expert divers. Exploration of Dos Ojos in the state of Quintana Roo, Mexico, began in 1986 and discoveries are still being made today. It was used as a film site in the 2002 IMAX film entitled Journey Into Amazing Caves, the 2006 Discovery Channel/BBC series Planet Earth, and the 2005 Hollywood hit movie, The Cave.
Geographically, Dos Ojos is a flooded cave system located north of Tulum on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan. It is classified as an anchialine cave system–that is, a landlocked body with a underground connection into the ocean. The discharge points of Dos Ojos into the ocean have not been explored entirely through, but the volumes of groundwater that flows toward Caleta Xelha has been somewhat explored by lagoon divers. Divers are advised that in these types of anchialine pools, however, that water levels do vary with tidal changes. So far, documentation measures the underwater reaches of the cave system to depths of 61 kilometers (2008). The cenotes, or sinkhole entrances, numbered 25 or higher–provide a good range of entry points for scuba divers to explore Dos Ojos.
Lying parallel to Nohoch Nah Chich, Dos Ojos is predicted to one day connect into it, which would create a combined length beyond 200 kilometers. Dos Ojos also contains the deepest known cave passage in Quintana Roo at a depth of 396 feet (118 m) called “The Pit.” Divers discovered it recently in 1996 after coming from more than 5,000 feet from the entrance. Thus, the Cenotes of Dos Ojos remain mysterious, a feeling that contributes to the drawing power of these caves.
Accessing Dos Ojos - What to Expect
The entrance to Dos Ojos for divers and explorers is situated one kilometer south of the Xel-Ha Cenotes and approximately 38 km from the famous tourist spot and dive destination of Playa del Carmen. When approaching from the highway, a long dirt road (about 4 km) leads to parking lots that serve the cave’s visitors for the day. From the entrance, divers and snorkelers will notice that there is more than one option for exploring Dos Ojos–with 60 kilometers to explore and 25 cenotes, you’ll have no shortage of options for which way to go. Most guided cavern dives include two dives in one day. Typical dive times are about 45 min. each and are generally broken up with a 60 min. surface interval.
Divers in the Dos Ojos are likely to experience average water temperatures of 77F (25C) and most dives will range between depths of 5-7 m (15-20 feet). Divers may reach maximum depths of only about 10 m (note: water levels vary with tides). Because dives are shallow, divers enjoy plenty of bottom time to enjoy the ecosystem and the labyrinth-style caverns. Generally, water visibility is excellent as the rainwater gets filtered through very pure limestone rock and soil development is very minimal.
When taking the Dos Ojos cavern dives, the “First Eye” actually has two very different starting points, each with its own ending point. The Bat Cave dive is the darker of the two, as little daylight enters the cave system. Divemasters encourage ascents so that snorkelers or divers can marvel at the scenery and find bats hiding between stalactites. Divers are also advised that for diving rather than snorkeling the bat cave, good buoyancy control is required as you move rapidly through passageways filled with fragile speleotherms and visibility can be limited by lack of light. And, for divers who anticipate coming into close contact with the bats, a rabies shot is typically recommended. Recently, divemasters recorded an albino bat living in the cave, which had never been reported over the previous decades of diving in Dos Ojos.
The dives of the “Second Eye” will primarily lead divers along the opening and there is abundant sunlight. The “Second Eye” also is much roomier, giving divers space to swim freely around gigantic columns and stalactites. The deep passages that divers can explore specifically include the Wakulla Room, the Beyong Main Base (BMB) passage, Jill's room, and the next generation passage.
Underwater photographers surely enjoy the backlighting effects in Dos Ojos, particularly in the “Second Eye.” There are also ample opportunities to experience freshwater fish in the cavern–most of which are about 3 inches (10 cm) long or less. There are also two varieties of freshwater shrimp that dwell inside the caverns of Dos Ojos.
Ready to dive Mexico’s Dos Ojos cenote? Start planning today as this is a popular destination and space may be limited!