In English, La Paz translates to “The Peace”. Here, in the capital city of Baja California Sur, the weather is arid, with low rainfall. There are normally about 300 sunny days per year, and winter temperature averages 77 degrees, while summer temperatures are closer to 90. The bay fronts on the Sea of Cortez, where the diving is spectacular.
While the area is well known for its whale shark, manta ray, and hammerhead sightings, as well as the Gray Whale migration that takes place between December and March each year, it is also home to some incredible shipwrecks. Let’s take a look at The Salvatierra and Gaviota wrecks, as well as the Fang Ming and Lapas03, which were sunk as an artificial reef addition.
The Salvatierra
Salvatierra was a ferry that serviced a route between La Paz and Topolobampo. Measuring 320 feet in length and 50 feet across, she was built from a converted LST Landing Craft and on her last voyage, she was charged with the task of transporting a cargo of gasoline, butane, diesel fuel, and jet fuel.
In June of 1976, Salvatierra struck Suwanee rock, which lies just six feet beneath the surface in San Lorenzo Channel. The 22 truck drivers who were onboard, as well as the entire crew made it to safety, while the ferry sunk to the sandy bottom of the channel, where she landed in sixty feet of water.
Shortly after the ship sank, salvage attempts began; however, salvage divers ended up swimming in a sea of jet fuel that had escaped from the tankers onboard and penetrated the ballast area which they were attempting to close off and refill with air from surface pumps. While the salvage company was waiting for a better air pump, Hurricane Liza struck on September 30 of 1976, tearing the superstructure from the deck.
Today, Salvatierra is a diver’s paradise. There are fish everywhere along this thriving artificial reef, and with the low current and shallow depth, this massive wreck is ideal for all levels. There are still a few cargo trucks on the bottom with Salvatierra, and the huge propellers make for excellent photos. Look for nudibranchs and schools of barracuda, and sharks as you explore the outer reaches of the ship. Penetration is not advised.
The Gaviota Wrecks
Not much is known about the Gaviota wrecks, however, these two wooden boats lie in shallow water just off the shore of Isla Gaviota, in the bay of La Paz. Suitable for all divers, these two boats are not that large or impressive in and of themselves, however, they are home to some incredible sea life. Curious sergeant majors, as well as a variety or invertebrates are everywhere you look. Dive operators in the area normally combine a trip to the Gaviotas with a journey to the caves and coastline, making for an enjoyable day’s diving.
Fang Ming and Lapas03
Once used by Chinese smugglers to conceal human cargo, these two ships were seized by the Mexican government after everyone onboard was shuttled to safety. Finally, in 1999, the decision was made to create an artificial reef with the two vessels, which now lie near Isla Ballena and which have been prepared for safe penetration by qualified wreck divers. Fang Ming is 180 feet, and Lapas03 is 118 feet. Just imagine a terrifying crossing in these small, ill-equipped vessels! Today, the reef is thriving and provides a home to plentiful fish and invertebrates, and the two wrecks are used in diver training courses.