The Mayan word, Cozumel, translates loosely to “The Island of the Swallows”, and it is here where many of the most incredible Mayan ruins may be found. While there is plenty to see above the water, there are also a number of fabulous dive sites here, where the reef is, for the most part, healthy and undamaged. In 1960, Jacques Cousteau explored the area, and declared it to be one of the world’s best places to scuba dive. In 1996, the Mexican government established the Cozumel Reefs National Marine Park in an effort to better conserve this wonderful natural treasure.
Cozumel itself is a flat island with limestone geology and karst topography, which has resulted in a number of cenotes, which are open to cave divers. And, although the reefs here have sustained damage in recent hurricanes and via the construction of a deep water dock for cruise ships, they are still some of the most incredible the world has to offer.
Diving Conditions and What to Expect
As Cozumel has a subtropical climate, the temperatures in winter average about 77 degrees Fahrenheit, and in summer, a balmy 85 degrees. There are walls and reefs to explore, and while this is a popular destination, it is not overcrowded. The rainy season is May through September, and while rain does reduce the normally good visibility, it is not always impossible to dive on a rainy day.
Popular Cozumel Dive Sites
Santa Rosa Wall
Santa Rosa Wall features a very healthy reef and a wall that drops all the way to 200 feet. It is an incredible place to visit, and is best done as a drift at about 80 feet. The wall is completely coated in huge, spectacular sponges that show their brilliant colors as you shine your light on them. Look inside the sponges to see small crabs and gobies within! All along the wall, you will see plenty of large reef fish, including the rare Midnight Parrotfish that graze on the coral that dots the reef. Sometimes, you can hear them crunching! Look for mounds of coral that act as bases for sea fans, which wave gently in the current as you pass.
Along the reef above the wall, you will find swim-through tunnels that make this dive even more enchanting. Look for angelfish, and watch for the large grouper that hide within the grottoes here. If you are fortunate, you will see some larger pelagics, as well! There is a swift current here at times, which, when combined with depth, reserves the deep wall for advanced divers. Less experienced adventurers will enjoy the upper reef.
Palancar Caves
Also called the Palancar Reef or Palancar Gardens, the Palancar Caves are best known for their beautiful orange and purple sponges. Here, you will be accompanied by angelfish and butterflyfish, as well as brilliantly colored tangs, as you search for moray eels and reclusive fish inside the massive, room-sized caves. There are sea whips among the purple vase sponges, and black coral grows in profusion here. The coral formations themselves are like mountains, with some reaching up to within twenty feet of the surface. Identify them for yourself – brain coral with tiny reef fish living inside, sheet coral, and star coral are everywhere.
As you explore the many swim throughs and tunnels here, you may spot turtles or eagle rays, both of which enjoy relaxing on the sandy bottom at ninety feet before continuing their journeys. Though the upper reef is great for divers of all levels, the caves are reserved for advanced divers only.
Palancar Bricks
Here, maximum depth is ninety feet, with many features being accessible at sixty feet. Located near Columbia reef, at the end of Palancar reef, the site is punctuated by massive stone brick formations that are coated in encrusting coral and soft coral. The white sandy bottom here is a wonderful contrast to the blue abyss which is visible in the distance, and which is completely mesmerizing.
Besides the intricate coral formations among the bricks, there are larger coral formations dotting the sandy bottom. Here, fish swim in colorful profusion, and many visitors are lucky enough to spot eagle rays or sting rays. Turtles and sharks are commonly seen in the area as well, and the incredible visibility allows for excellent wide angle photo opps.
Palancar Horseshoe
Named for the shape the reef takes here, this section of Palancar also offers visibility in the two hundred foot range. Here, massive coral heads, some as large as eighty feet tall, rise from the sandy bottom to within twenty feet of the surface. This area can become crowded, as it is so popular; however, it is one of Cozumel’s best dives.
Punta Sur
With most features here lying between ninety and one hundred thirty feet, this dive site has swift mid-water currents and is often subject to rough surface conditions. Experienced divers however, will enjoy the challenges as well as the beauty this site provides.
The Devil’s Throat is probably the most famous part of Punta Sur. It begins with a coral swimthrough at ninety feet, which descends in utter darkness to the outside of the wall, overlooking the abyss, at 130 feet. Here, the sunlight is sparkling and often reveals the profiles of passing sharks and rays.
The Cathedral, which is a large cave opening, is an awe-inspiring site. It is massive and lit by a shaft of light that pierces the ceiling, where a naturally occurring cross made from giant sponges adds to the atmosphere – truly magnificent and a wonderful photo spot!
Las Palmas Shallows
With depths between twenty and forty feet, the Las Palmas shallows is a wonderful place for novice divers and snorkelers alike. Here, crabs and lobsters lounge on the sandy bottom among coral trees, while fish and eels, as well as rays, enjoy the rich plankton that arrives here during the winter months. This site can be crowded at times, and there can be a current, as well.
Colombia Wall
Also known as Columbia deep, this beautiful wall is punctuated by caverns, tunnels, and caves filled with marine life. Watch for large moray eels and barracuda as you explore the wall, and be sure to inspect the massive coral pinnacles, as well. There is an abundance of macro life, and the current here is moderate, which allows for a gentle drift over the drop off, which varies from sixty to eighty feet . Look out into the blue, and you may see large sharks, eagle rays, and turtles.
While these are just a handful of Cozumel’s best dive sites, there are many more to choose from. It’s time to dust off your diving skills and take a vacation in paradise – enjoy it!