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Diving Cooper Island in the British Virgin Islands: From Wreck Alley to the Devil's Kitchen

Surrounded by clear blue water, Cooper Island is less busy than the better known British Virgin Islands.  With tropical forests and wonderful resorts, it is a wonderful place for a getaway – in fact, you might never want to leave!  There are dozens of excellent dive sites which are easily accessible from the island, but some are very close by and do deserve special mention.  Here are just five to pique your interest. 

Wreck Alley - British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

Wreck Alley includes four small wrecks:  the Island Seal, the Marie L, the Pat, and the Beata.  The Island Seal, which was deployed as an artificial reef in 2009, is the latest addition to this group of wrecks, all of which were intentionally sunk as habitats for marine life and dive attractions for visitors to Cooper Island.  The Beata was deployed in 2001, and the Marie L and the Pat are a pair of old tugboats which have been here since the early 1990’s.  Each of the wrecks has attracted copious amounts of coral and sponge growth, and each has its own residents.  Look for moray eels and groupers, brilliant blue tangs and parrotfish, and lots of other reef dwellers in different colors, shapes and sizes.  Maximum depth is 90 feet, and there is usually a current present, which brings in pelagics.  Nearby, a lovely little reef makes for a fun diversion and a safe ending to your dive, and a colony of garden eels add a magical element to the scene.   Wreck Alley is often dived in combination with a trip to the nearby wreck of the Inganess Bay.  Watch for stingrays in the sand, and keep an eye out for the turtles which often visit the wrecks. 

Dry Rocks East - British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

The spine of a seamount, which breaks the surface, Dry Rocks East protrudes into the channel between Ginger Island and Cooper Island, and as the only geological relief in the immediate area, attracts a wealth of fish.  With maximum depth at 85 meters, and washed by strong currents, this craggy series of walls and boulders is nothing short of magnificent, and is suitable for experienced divers only.   

Best of all, it offers an excellent vantage point out into the blue, where you can see pelagics swiftly travelling in the current.  Look for jacks and permit, along with the occasional flight of rays and a few good sized sharks from time to time.  Nearer the rocks, small reef fish find shelter behind boulders, and big moray eels gape from their hiding spots.  Huge groupers inhabit large cracks, and parrotfish and trunkfish nibble at the rocky bottom.  Covered in encrusting coral and sponges, sea fans and gorgonians, the site is just as beautiful as it is exciting.

Vanishing Rocks - British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

Also known as Dry Rock West, Vanishing Rocks is a very beautiful site which is normally quite calm and suitable for newer divers, although it is shallow and occasionally not diveable due to strong currents and treacherous swells.  The tip of the pinnacle which rises up from the seabed 45 feet below breaks the surface, and is wreathed in a tapestry of hard and soft coral, sponges, and anemones.  Crawling with squat lobsters and tiny crabs, shrimp and other little creatures, it shelters lots of colorful anthias and butterfly fish, angelfish and fusiliers, filefish and others.  On the soaring pinnacle’s southern side, you’ll find an area which is known as Sergeant Major City due to the large number of the fish which congregate here,  and around the base of the pinnacle, a tall stand of healthy pillar coral attracts even more bustling marine activity.  Watch for moray eels and octopus, squid, and groupers among the boulders that litter the bottom.   

Carvel Rock - British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

Another site which is fun for newer divers and those with lots of experience alike, Carvel Rock is a monolithic boulder which is covered in colorful fire coral and all sorts of intriguing sponges in bright shades of orange, purple, and yellow.  The main rock is surrounded by huge, fractured boulders, and features depths from 15 to 90 feet.  Home to kingfish and green moray eels, barracuda and queen triggerfish, white spotted filefish and schooling batfish, to name just a few, this is also a good place to find crabs and lobsters, along with other small creatures that take shelter in the cracks.  Occasionally, strong currents and big swells crash against the rock, making the site impossible to dive. 

The Devil’s Kitchen - British Virgin Islands Dive Sites

A favorite site with local divers, the Devil’s Kitchen is often used for second dives, and is suitable for new divers.  Incredible geologic features are the main attraction here, although the marine life is spectacular.  South of the mooring, a huge shelf extends from a depth of 30 feet to 55 feet, and is then undercut.  Beneath the shelf, the volcanic nature of the rock is revealed, as huge holes create hiding places for little reef fish, lobsters and several species of crab.  You’ll find schooling reef fish in colorful array, and huge silver tarpon just waiting for breakfast to swim past.  In addition, this is a good place to encounter sea turtles, as they seem to like sitting on the ledge and they love to nibble on the sponges.  On occasion, the site is pounded by heavy waves and swept by a strong current, creating conditions much too hazardous for diving.  These waves are what have shaped this amazing feature, and it is interesting to think about what it will look like a thousand years from today.  

Visiting Cooper Island is easy, but accommodations are limited.  If you do stay on the island, plan on enjoying the red carpet treatment, since there are only a few resorts and they are much sought after by people who need to get away from the fast track, if only for a week or two.  Plan to spend lots of time relaxing, and make reservations in advance – you’ll be very glad that you did!    

Location:
  • Caribbean
  • British Virgin Islands
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